Please Note:  This article addresses behavior, problems, and a possible solution for the indoor cat as we believe that all domesticated cats should live indoors, especially our beloved Persian cats.     🙂

Obviously, dogs and cats are different. Inasmuch as dogs are pack animals and form hierarchies and cats are solitary and more territorial than dogs. Therefore, dogs respect the pack leader or "alpha", while cats respect territory. Cats only form social groups out of necessity. Usually when cats live in a group that arrangement is based on each cat respecting the others' territory. I cannot stress enough that your acting like the "top dog" will not work with cats and therefore, physical punishment will not work as that will only teach the cat to fear you and quite possibly other people as well.

An effective "punishment" is to utilize the cat's natural avoidance of surprise and sudden noises. Use a spray bottle with water in it, clap your hands, make a hissing sound, and other such noises which will startle the cat and interupt the bad behavior. Your "correction" has to be as soon the cat exhibits the unwanted behavior or it will not be effective. Below are a few of the more common behavioral problems seen in cats.

There are two schools of thought on discipline for biting. Personally, I have tried both of the suggestions below and I believe it depends on the cat as to whether or not you feel comfortable allowing it to attack you. You can also gently place your hand on the cat's face and push it back while saying "no" firmly. Hissing at the cat also may act as a deterrent.  Never hit the cat!

Some people believe that you can train the cat not to bite by (1) allowing it to attack or bite, (2) crying out, (3) pulling the hand back, and (4) offering a toy as a substitute.

I have found with my Persian kittens which usually go through the "everything must go in my mouth stage", that withdrawing my hand and ceasing the "play" interaction with the kitten works well.  I only resume play with the kitten when it has had a few minutes to chill out.  I then allow the kitten to resume play and if it bites my hand or fingers too hard again, I withdraw my hand and cease "playing".  Repeat as necessary.  Some kittens learn this faster than others.

A cat that is trained not to use you as a toy will be more trustworthy around babies and small children.

Always provide your cat with a scratching post or other acceptable scratching area. Part of having a good citizen is keeping the kitten's claws trimmed.  Trim the nails on a weekly or bi-weekly schedule.

Scratching Post 101 - First of all, you may need to teach your cat or kitten how to use the scratching post.  Take your kitten and sit very close to the post, put the kitten up close to the post and take a front arm in each of your hands.  Then using their front arms/paws (an arm held in each hand)  "simulate" scratching on the post.  Make sure the kitten's pads of their toes make contact with the post as this will transfer its "scent" to the post.  Scratching posts are not just to keep the cat from scratching your furniture, scratching allows the cat to "mark" its territory.  Each time the pads and nails of their front feet come in contact with the post, they transfer their scent onto it.  A cat scratching is not meant as a destructive behavior, rather it is the way in which cat's communicate "this area is mine".

If you observe your cat scratching on an unapproved scratching area firmly say "no" and/or hiss at it. You can also use Bitter Apple or Bitter Orange on furniture and items you do not want the cat to use as a scratching post. Follow the product instructions carefully. Usually, I spray the item and then spray a small amount on the cat's tongue so it will associate the smell and taste of the Bitter Apple when it gets close to the item I don't want it to use.  I do not recommend putting pepper (white, black or cayenne) on the unapproved item - I think this is a bit harsh.

Different cats like different kinds of scratching posts. Some like scratching posts that lie flat on the ground rather than the vertical variety. In general, cats seem to like natural fiber rope that is tightly wrapped around the post. Do not use plush carpet or other fibers that the cat's nails get stuck in. Also, do not use a scratching post that has a carpet similar to what type of carpet you have in your home as it gives the cat a mixed message.  Cats will either love their scratching post and use it all the time or never use one at all!

If you have a cat that prefers your carpet for a scratching post, and you have a carpeted scratching post, you may want to get a scratching post that is not carpeted and retrain your cat to use the "new" post. Get a scratching post with thick sisal rope as felines seem to love this material.  Refer to the "Scratching" section above.

Many people do not want their cats on their furniture, including tables and counter tops. I have found a few things that seem to discourage this behavior. Again, utilize the cat's natural avoidance for loud noises and surprises by using common kitchen utensils, cookie sheets, and/or empty aluminum cans with a few pennies in them. Place these items on the furniture, counter, table, etc. but slightly off-balance so that they will easily fall when the cat jumps or climbs up. Sometimes using double-sided tape (or tape with the gummy side up) on the item you don't want the cat on will discourage it from being there. If you happen to catch the cat in the act, squirt the cat with the water bottle while hissing at it.